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时间:2019年09月17日 12:17:03

Advisers to president-elect Donald Trump have aly begun playing down the prospect of a full-blown US trade war with China.美国当选总统唐纳德.特朗普(Donald Trump)的顾问们已经在着手淡化美中发生全面贸易战的可能性。Amid concern that a new era of US protectionism would have damaging consequences for the global economy.人们担心,美国步入新的贸易保护主义时代会对全球经济造成破坏性影响。Indeed, some analysts wonder whether the tough trade promises made on the campaign trail may take a back seat as Mr Trump focuses on tax cuts and an infrastructure programme designed to boost US growth, the prospect of which has buoyed markets since Tuesday’s election.事实上,部分分析人士在想,特朗普会不会把竞选过程中作出的强硬贸易承诺放在次要位置上,而集中精力推行减税和旨在促进美国经济增长的基建计划——自上周二美国大选以来,这种可能性对市场起到了提振作用。There aren’t going to be trade wars, Wilbur Ross, the New York investor and Trump adviser, told US media last week.特朗普的顾问、纽约投资人士威尔伯.罗斯(Wilbur Ross)上周向美国媒体表示:不会发生贸易战的。Mr Ross argues that Mr Trump’s widely-ed campaign threat to impose a 45 per cent tariff on Chinese imports — 特朗普曾在竞选过程中威胁称,要对从中国进口的商品征收税率为45%的关税。Seized on by economists as the potential trigger for a trade war with Beijing — has been misunderstood and amounts only to negotiating tactics.经济学家们抓住这句话不放,称此举可能引发与中国的贸易战。对此,罗斯辩称道,人们误解了特朗普这句被广泛援引的话,它只能算是谈判的战术。Such a figure would be dependent on a finding that China’s currency, the renminbi, was undervalued by 45 per cent, Mr Ross says. 罗斯表示,这一数字可能是基于一项认为人民币汇率被低估了45%的研究结果。The International Monetary Fund has called the RMB fairly valued while US officials point out any recent intervention by Beijing in currency markets has been designed to slow a market-driven decline, arguably to the US’s benefit. 国际货币基金组织(IMF)已表示,人民币的估值是合理的。美国官员也指出,中国政府最近对汇市作出的任何干预,都旨在延缓一轮由市场驱动的人民币贬值,这可以说是对美国有益的。While escalation to a full trade war is in doubt, this does not mean a Trump administration is planning to be soft with China.虽然升级为全面贸易战的前景存疑,但这并不意味着特朗普政府打算对华采取温和立场。Mr Trump has promised to direct his Treasury Secretary to label China a currency manipulator within his first 100 days, something the outgoing President Barack Obama avoided doing for fear of provoking Beijing. 特朗普承诺,要在上任百日内指示美国财政部将中国列为汇率操纵国。由于担心激怒北京方面,目前即将卸任的美国总统巴拉克.奥巴马(Barack Obama)过去一直没有这么做。Although such a move would be largely symbolic and carry few immediate trade consequences this would almost certainly incite an aggressive reaction from China, rapidly escalating bilateral tensions, says Eswar Prasad, a former IMF China expert now at Cornell University.曾任IMF中国部专家、如今在康奈尔大学(Cornell University)任教的埃斯瓦尔.普拉萨德(Eswar Prasad)表示,虽然此类举措在很大程度上将是象征性的、对贸易几乎没有什么即刻影响,但这么做几乎肯定会引发中国的强硬反应,迅速加剧双方之间的紧张态势。Mr Trump would undoubtedly bring high-profile cases against China at the World Trade Organisation and impose steep anti-dumping tariffs against steel and other Chinese imports, much as the Obama administration has. 特朗普无疑会在世界贸易组织(WTO)对华发起高调的诉讼,对钢材和其他从中国进口的商品征收高额反倾销税——这很像奥巴马政府已经采取的做法。His 100-day plans calls for his administration to identify all foreign trading abuses that unfairly impact American workers and use every tool under American and international law to end those abuses immediately. 特朗普的百日计划要求其政府甄别出一切对美国劳动者造成不公平影响的外国贸易不当行为,并依据美国及国际法律动用各种手段立刻扫灭这些不当行为。Mr Trump could also toughen foreign investment rules and the national security-focused review process conducted by the Committee on Foreign Investment in the US (CFIUS). 特朗普还可能收紧外国投资规定和由美国外国投资委员会(CFIUS)开展的、聚焦于国家安全的审查流程。China has long complained the current system discriminates against its companies. 长时间来,中国一直抱怨美国现行制度歧视中国企业。Yet some see Mr Trump embracing congressional calls to broaden CFIUS’s remit to add a net economic benefit test or other strategic considerations in a move that could block more Chinese investments in the US. 不过,有些人认为特朗普会对国会扩大CFIUS职责的呼声采取持态度。美国国会呼吁在CFIUS的审查流程中增添一项净经济效益考察或者其他战略考量,此举可能会封杀更多的中国对美投资。But such a step would hit part of the economic relationship growing in the US’s favour. 但这样的举动将对日益有利于美国的经济往来造成部分冲击。 According to a new study by the Rhodium Group, a research firm, cumulative US direct investment in China between 1990 and 2015 reached 8bn. 研究机构荣鼎咨询(Rhodium Group)的一项新研究显示,1990年至2015年间,美国对华直接投资累计达2280亿美元。The Chinese equivalent into the US was worth bn. 而中国对美的同类投资为640亿美元。But this year alone Chinese FDI into the US is poised to hit a record bn, according to Rhodium, and anything disturbing that would hit American workers. 但荣鼎咨询的数据显示,仅今年一年中国对美的直接投资就将达到创纪录的300亿美元,任何干扰这一趋势的举措都将对美国劳动者造成冲击。What happens next will depend on who Mr Trump brings into office with him.至于接下来会发生什么,取决于特朗普会任命谁进入他的政府。Dan DiMicco, the former chief executive of steel company Nucor and a longtime advocate of a tougher US line on China, is the point person on trade in Mr Trump’s transition team. 在特朗普的过渡班子中,贸易问题的负责人是钢铁企业纽柯(Nucor)前首席执行官、长期鼓吹美国对华采取更强硬立场的丹.迪米科(Dan DiMicco)。Mr DiMicco, who is a candidate for both Commerce Secretary and US Trade Representative, told the FT on Saturday that any notions of a Trump administration taking a softer post-election line on trade were false rumours. 迪米科既是美国商务部长的候选人,也是美国贸易代表(US Trade Representative)的候选人。上周六,迪米科向英国《金融时报》表示,所有关于大选后上台的特朗普政府会软化其先前贸易立场的说法都是谣言。Another campaign adviser, economist Peter Navarro, is a well-known China hawk whose 2013 film Death by China was praised by Mr Trump as an important documentary.特朗普的另一位竞选顾问、经济学家彼得.纳瓦罗(Peter Navarro)是著名的对华鹰派,特朗普曾称赞他在2013年制作的影片《致命中国》(Death by China)是一部重要的纪录片。But Mr Trump’s running mate, Mike Pence, who has taken charge of the transition, is a free trader who as governor in Indiana has travelled to China to court investment. 不过,特朗普的竞选搭档、负责过渡工作的迈克.彭斯(Mike Pence)是个主张自由贸易的人。作为印第安纳州州长,彭斯曾赴中国招商引资。Moreover, there are aly signs the Republican trade establishment is entering the fray with a former US Chamber of Commerce lobbyist, Rolf Lundberg, put in charge of the transition’s trade policy implementation.此外,已有迹象显示共和党贸易建制派正参与进来,前美国商会(US Chamber of Commerce)游说人士罗尔夫.伦德伯格(Rolf Lundberg)就被指派负责过渡班子的贸易政策实施工作。Given how the financial markets are reacting — which is splendid from a Trump viewpoint — I don’t think Trump’s trade team will want the trade part to spoil the [economic benefits of the] fiscal stimulus part, says Gary Hufbauer, a senior fellow at the Peterson Institute for International Economics.彼得森国际经济研究所(Peterson Institute for International Economics)高级研究员加里.赫夫鲍尔(Gary Hufbauer)表示:考虑到金融市场目前的反应——在特朗普看来反应相当不错——我不认为特朗普的贸易团队希望贸易这部分毁掉财政刺激那部分(带来的经济好处)。Some in China are optimistic. 部分中国人士持乐观态度。Most American presidential candidates don’t carry out their threats once they become president, says Li Xinchuang, head of the China Metallurgical Planning and Research Institute.中国冶金工业规划研究院(China Metallurgical Industry Planning and Research Institute)院长李新创表示:多数美国总统候选人在当选后都不会把选举时的威胁付诸实施。Others remain fearful, however. 但也有些人士仍然感到担忧。In the post-Cold War era, Trump is an unprecedented protectionist, says Shi Yinhong, an international relations professor at Renmin University in Beijing. 在后冷战时代,特朗普是个史无前例的贸易保护主义者。Sooner or later his protectionism and populism will damage Sino-US trade relations.中国人民大学(Renmin University)国际关系学教授时殷弘表示,他的保护主义和民粹主义迟早会破坏中美贸易关系。 /201611/478314

B News – The Japanese city of Hiroshima has asked Pokemon Go#39;s creators to keep its virtual monsters out of memorials to victims of the atomic bomb. It wants the monsters removed by 6 August, when an annual ceremony is held on the anniversary of the 1945 bombing.B新闻 – 日本广岛要求宝可梦Go的游戏创作者让他们的虚拟怪兽远离原子弹受害者纪念馆。广岛希望8月6日前清除怪兽,届时,将举行一年一度的1945年原子弹轰炸周年纪念仪式。The wildly popular Pokemon Go was released in Japan on Friday. It superimposes virtual characters on a smartphone#39;s view of the real world, with players catching monsters in physical places designated ;Pokestops; and training them in ;gyms; .广受欢迎的宝可梦Go周五在日本发行。游戏把虚拟角色叠加在智能手机的真实世界视野上,玩家在有形场所指定的“宝可站”抓怪兽,并在“健身房”训练它们。Unlike most smartphone games, it requires players to walk around in their hunt, leading to official requests around the world for people to be kept away from locations for safety or sensitivity reasons.不像大多数智能手机游戏,宝可梦Go要求玩家抓捕过程中到处走,致使世界各地的官员出于安全或敏感原因,要求人们远离某些场所。Hiroshima#39;s Peace Park, which includes a memorial and a museum dedicated to the 140,000 people killed in the world#39;s first nuclear attack, occupies a large, quiet area in an otherwise crowded city.广岛的和平公园在这座原本拥挤的城市中占据着一大片安静的区域,包括专为世界上第一次核弹攻击中遇难的14万人而建的一座纪念馆和一个物馆。There are around 30 Pokestops in the park, and three ;gyms;, where gamers can battle other players#39; Pokemon, reports Japanese broadcaster NHK. NHK ed officials as saying this had made it hard for visitors to access the facilities and was disrupting the quiet of an area considered sacred.园中大约有30处“宝可站”,3处“健身房”,游戏玩家可以与其他玩家的精灵宝可梦作战,日本放送协会(NHK)报道说。NHK援引官员的话说,这使得其他参观者难以进入这些地方,破坏了被认为是神圣之地的安静。Pokemon Go#39;s US developer, Niantic, considers requests for exclusions, but does not automatically grant them. It has not commented on this particular case.宝可梦Go的美国开发商奈安蒂克考虑了将这些地方排除在外的请求,但没有自动答应请求。它尚未对这种特殊情况发表。 /201608/457610

Shaban Khema, an IT manager from Kosovo, wants just one thing this festive season: to be able to stay in Germany. But his chances are slim, and getting slimmer.沙班科玛(Shaban Khema)是一名来自科索沃的IT经理,这个节日季他只想要一样东西——可以留在德国。但他的机会十分微小,而且还在不断变小。“If I have to go back it’s death for me,” the 32-year-old says. “My future is here, not in Kosovo.”32岁的沙班说:“如果我必须回去,就等于被判了死刑。我的未来在这儿,不在科索沃。”Mr Khema is a casualty of Germany’s tough new approach to migrants from the Balkans. While the country has thrown open its doors to refugees from the war in Syria, it is closing them for people from countries such as Albania and Kosovo. Thousands of immigrants, many of whom have lived here for months, now face deportation.沙班是德国对巴尔干地区移民最新采取的强硬政策的牺牲品。德国在向叙利亚内战难民敞开国门的同时,对阿尔巴尼亚和科索沃等国的人关上了这道大门。成千上万名移民现在面临着驱逐出境,其中许多人已经在德国居住了好几个月。The approach is the flipside of Berlin’s “Willkommenskultur”, or “welcome culture”, that was embodied in Chancellor Angela Merkel’s decision last September to bypass Europe’s asylum rules and allow thousands of refugees stuck on the Hungarian border to make their way to Germany. It was a move that split Europe and earned her stinging criticism from domestic opponents, who feared it would only encourage more uncontrolled immigration.这一举措是柏林方面“欢迎文化”(Willkommenskultur)的另一面;“欢迎文化”体现于德国总理安格拉默克尔(Angela Merkel)今年9月作出的一个决定。当时默克尔决定绕过欧洲的庇护规则,允许滞留在匈牙利边境的成千上万难民进入德国。这一作法不但导致欧洲意见分歧,还为她招致了国内对手的严厉批评,他们担心这会鼓励更多不受控制的移民。The Balkan strategy is in part a response to those critics. The idea is to reduce the influx by weeding out economic migrants and sending them home. Indeed, the number of repatriations has steadily risen: by the end of November, more than 18,000 people had been deported this year, compared with around 11,000 people in the whole of 2014.遣返巴尔干移民的决策在一定程度上是对这些批评的回应,其意图是通过清查并遣返经济移民来减少移民总数。的确,遣返人数一直在稳步上升,截至11月底,今年已有1.8万人被递解出境,而2014年全年为1.1万人左右。Yet in the grand scheme of things, it provides little relief. Germany is expected to have registered 1m asylum seekers by the end of the year, and new arrivals keep coming.但在宏观层面上,该策略起不到什么缓解作用。至今年底,德国预计将登记100万寻求庇护者,新难民还在不断涌入。Mr Khema, however, will not be among those allowed to stay. He and his wife and daughter were recently transported to a former US army barracks in the picturesque Bavarian town of Bamberg that has been turned into a camp for Balkan immigrants awaiting deportation.但是在获准留下的移民群体中,将不会出现沙班的名字。他和妻女最近被送往班贝格(Bamberg)一座专为巴尔干移民准备的营地,等待被递解出境。这座移民营位于风景如画的巴伐利亚小镇,是由原美军军营改造的。Visibly anxious, he has been in Germany for 10 months and ds returning home. “It’s a catastrophe there,” he says. “You can only get a job or medical treatment if you pay a bribe.”沙班的焦急显露无遗,他在德国已经待了10个月,惧怕回国。他说:“那儿现在一片衰败。你只有行贿才能得到一份工作或是获得治疗。”The Bamberg camp was set up as Germany’s parliament toughened up the country’s asylum law by placing Kosovo, Albania and Montenegro on the list of “safe” countries of origin: asylum applications from these countries would henceforth be considered “patently unfounded”. Further changes replaced the cash payments migrants receive with benefits in kind, such as vouchers for consumer goods or bus tickets.班贝格移民营的设立,是因为德国议会通过了更为严格的难民法案,将科索沃、阿尔巴尼亚和黑山共和国列入“安全的”原籍国名单,今后来自这些国家的庇护申请将被认为“显然毫无根据”。更多的改变包括将发放给移民的现金换成实物福利,比如购物代金券或车票。Bamberg houses 850 refugees, most brought here from temporary hostels dotted across Bavaria or picked up by local police. It is a Spartan place: residents complain about the food and the meagre allowance of ㈠   a month.班贝格现在容纳了850名难民,大多数人要么是从巴伐利亚州各地的临时旅馆带到这儿,要么是由当地警察送来的。这里条件艰苦,居民们对这里的食物和每月200欧元的微薄津贴都抱怨不已。“A lot of people are leaving of their own free will because the conditions are so bad,” says Nazmi, an Albanian man in his twenties. “They give us salami three times a day, every day. You feel like an animal.”20来岁的阿尔巴尼亚青年纳兹米(Nazmi)说:“许多人都自动离开了,因为这里的条件真是太差了。他们给我们每天的三顿饭都是萨拉米香肠,让人觉得自己像头动物。”Local officials say things are not so bad. There is a school, playroom and medical centre while the Red Cross provides second-hand clothes. The accommodation may be crowded but at least it is warm and dry.当地官员则表示情况并没有那么糟糕。这里有学校、游戏室和医疗中心,红十字会还提供旧衣。居住环境可能有些拥挤,但至少温暖而干燥。The camp is also, on one level, a propaganda tool.在某种层面上,班贝格移民营也是个宣传工具。“People come to Germany thinking they’ll get hundreds of euros, a plot of land, work,” says Stefan Krug, of the government of Upper Franconia, who is responsible for the site. “This facility should help to convey to the Balkan countries a realistic image of Germany.”上弗兰肯区政府的斯特凡克鲁格(Stefan Krug)是这里的负责人,他说:“来德国的人以为会获得几百欧元,一块土地,还有工作。这个营地应该有助于向巴尔干国家传递德国的现实形象。”Critics say that image is deliberately distorted. “It’s a system of deterrence, segregation, ghettoisation, which I thought wasn’t possible any more in Germany,” says Sylvia Schaible, who works in a local refugee charity.批评者则表示这是一个被故意歪曲的形象。当地一家难民慈善组织的工作人员西尔维亚餠伊布勒(Sylvia Schaible)说:“这是一种吓阻、隔离、贫民窟话的体制,而我曾经以为这种体制不再可能在德国出现。”Every new arrival at the facility is registered and interviewed by an official from Germany’s federal agency for migration, known as a “decider”. Those who have their asylum request rejected can appeal. If that fails, their case is handed to a government agency that arranges their return home. It used to take months to process asylum applications: Bamberg aims to get that down to around 10 working days. So far, no one at the camp has been allowed to stay in Germany.每一个新进入这座移民营的人都要去登记,并接受德国联邦移民署一名官员——所谓的“裁决者”——的面试。避难申请被拒的人可以提出上诉,如上诉失败,他们的案子会被移交给一个政府机构,由其安排他们的遣返事宜。过去处理避难申请需要几个月时间,班贝格移民营的目标是将这一时长缩短至10个工作日左右。到目前为止,班贝格移民营还没有一人获准留在德国。Mr Krug acknowledges that the mood in the camp is “pretty glum”.负责人克鲁格承认班贝格移民营的气氛“相当阴沉”。“People know why they’ve been sent here, and that it is highly likely they will get a negative decision,” he says.他说:“人们知道自己为什么被送到这里,而且他们极有可能得到一个负面的决定。”Since the camp was opened in September, 463 residents have voluntarily returned home and 170 have been deported. The plan is to expand capacity to 1,500 by the end of the year and to 4,500 by next March. Germany will ultimately have as many as five such camps.班贝格移民营自9月成立以来,已有463人自愿回国,170人被递解出境。该移民营计划至今年底将容量扩到1500人,明年3月扩大至4500人。德国最终将设立5个这样的移民营。Raif Zelenkovic, a 20-something Bosnian from Tuzla, is bracing himself for bad news. Unlike most residents of the Bamberg camp he speaks fluent German — he spent six years here as a child in the 1990s, but his family then moved back to the Balkans. He returned to Germany last January — a country he considers home.20多岁的波斯尼亚人拉伊夫泽伦科威克(Raif Zelenkovic)来自图兹拉(Tuzla),他已经为坏消息做好了准备。与班贝格移民营里大多数人不同,他会说一口流利的德语,上世纪90年代他还是孩子时曾在德国生活过6年,后来他们一家又搬回巴尔干地区。今年1月他又回到德国,他认为这里才是自己的故乡。“All I want is to be able to work here, I don’t want benefits,” he says. “I just want to be like other people. I need a future.”他说:“我唯一想要的就是能在这儿工作,我并不想要福利。我只想像其他人一样,我需要一个未来。” /201601/419730

“I don’t get it,” says an old university friend. “Surely you either like a fragrance or you don’t?” We were discussing our respective days. As a criminal barrister, she was off to assess the profile of a suspected rapist; my day, meanwhile, would be spent being “profiled” for perfume. A service increasingly popular with boutiques, profiling is designed to help clients discover the right fragrance for them. (It’s arguable who put their law degree to better use, my friend or myself, but I defend the right to a signature fragrance, m’lud.)“我不明白,”一位大学老友说道,“你要么喜欢一种香水,要么不喜欢,肯定是这样吧?”我们正讨论着各自的日常工作。她是刑事律师,平时要评估强奸嫌犯的“心理画像”。我的一天则花在与香水配对上。香水配对(perfume profiling)是精品店里日益红火的一项务,旨在帮助客人发现合适的香水。(我和我的朋友都有法学学位,很难说谁更是学以致用的那一位,但我捍卫拥有一款招牌香水的权利吧,法官大人。)As someone who isn’t loyal to any one scent but who nonetheless has olfactory opinions, I’m inclined to be as sceptical as my friend. Perfume is like art, right? You don’t know much about it but you know what you like. And, more pertinently, what you don’t like.我不执念于某一种香型,但在嗅觉方面颇有主见,因此我也和那位朋友一样对事物充满着怀疑。香水就像艺术,对吧?你不太懂,但你知道自己喜欢什么样的。更重要的是,你知道你不喜欢什么样的。Apparently not. “It’s hard to find a fragrance because there are so many,” says perfumer Azzi Glasser, whose profiling service at Harvey Nichols in London poses questions of loves, hates and favourite designers.但事实似乎并非如此。“很难挑选出一款香水,因为选择范围太广了。”香水师阿齐格拉瑟(Azzi Glasser)表示。格拉瑟在伦敦夏菲尼高百货(Harvey Nichols)提供香水配对务,问许多与爱好、憎恶和最喜欢的设计师有关的问题。Corny as it sounds, finding the right scent can be life-changing. Benjamin Paul Mabbett, the ma de consultation at the Roja Dove Haute Parfumerie, tells me that one client broke down in tears when she found a fragrance that suited her: “I’ve been smelling of cat’s pee for 26 years!” After being guided through choices for an hour, she had picked Lalique’s Perles de Lalique (55). Each time she returned to stock up on it, she reeked of confidence.虽然听上去是老生常谈,但找到合适的香型可以改变人生。Roja Dove高档香水店的高级顾问本杰明保罗氠贝特(Benjamin Paul Mabbett)告诉我,一位客人在找到合适的香水之后喜极而泣:“26年来,我的身上都有猫尿味!”在被领着挑选了一个小时之后,她选择了莱俪(Lalique)的水晶之珠(Perles de Lalique,售价55英镑)香水。每次回店里“囤货”的时候,她信心洋溢。Mabbett’s profiling consultation (150, redeemable against purchase) is great fun. It is approached via the celestial marble corridor of the Salon de Parfums, which sits like a sort of posh perfume souk at the top of Harrods. Inside, it’s all Swarovski crystals, that shade of Prince-purple, and a sofa area like the VIP bit of a nightclub. Mabbett puts me through an hour of rapid decision-making, with some interesting discoveries along the way — one fragrance smells strongly of Play-Doh, which, he explains, is because it’s packed with “amber notes, and vanilla, benzoin and labdanum”.马贝特的配对咨询(150英镑,如购买产品可免费享受)务乐趣横生。在哈罗德(Harrods)百货顶楼,穿过香水沙龙(Salon de Parfums,它像一座荟萃了时髦香水的集市)富丽堂皇的大理石走廊,便可到达他的店面。店里镶满了施华洛世奇(Swarovski)水晶,主色调采用美国歌手Prince标志性的紫色,沙发休息区类似夜总会的VIP包厢。马贝特带我经历了一个小时的闪电决策过程,中途不乏有趣的小发现——一款香水带有强烈的培乐多(Play-Doh)泥气味,对此他解释说,因为它“使用琥珀香调,富含香草、安息香和劳丹脂的气味。”In the end we narrow my “profile” down to the chypre family and I pick the beautiful Risqué (345) by Roja Parfums from the 400 fragrances on offer. Risqué is both fresh and leathery, with notes of bergamot and patchouli, cedar wood, vetiver, rose, jasmine and hyacinth. Mabbett assures me that Risqué will “take the wearer to the edge of the forbidden”, so I’m expecting something really exciting to happen any day now.最后,我们将“配对”范围缩小至西普(chypre)家族。我从400款候选香水中选择了Roja Parfums精美的Risqué香水(售价345英镑)。Risqué清新、有皮革味,融合了佛手柑、广藿香、雪松、香根草、茉莉和风信子气息。马贝特向我保,Risqué会将“使用者引向禁锢的边缘”。好吧,我期待着哪一天能上演什么激动人心的事情。At Diptyque’s fragrance-fitting, I find myself sniffing the air as fragrance expert Julie Bonin offers me candles to smell (candles’ scents have less complicated structures, so they’re a good way to figure out a person’s likes and dislikes). Its 34 scent (65) is composed of 100 notes and turns out to be my favourite. Its fig, sandalwood, roses and tuberose alternately dazzle like excitable children before each settles down into a wearable blend of green woody opulence.在Diptyque的香水配对柜台,香水专家朱丽娠坓(Julie Bonin)给了我一根蜡烛闻,于是我试图对着空气嗅出点什么。蜡烛的香味化学结构比较简单,因此容易分辨出一个人对香味的好恶。Diptyque的34号香氛(售价65英镑)由100种气息组成,是我的最爱。它的无花果、檀香、玫瑰和晚香玉气息好似容易兴奋的孩子,交替散发出迷人的味道,最后沉淀下来,幻化为萦绕周身湿木材味的丰盈感。London has two new fragrance boutiques — Creed at 99 Mount Street and Frederic Malle at 14 Burlington Arcade (a perfume hotspot where you’ll also find Penhaligon’s, Chanel and By Kilian) — both of which offer free profiling. Creed has a serene drawing room — you can take a group of friends (book first) and work your way through the 44 fragrances. I’m asked which scents I aly wear — Le Labo Santal 33 (150); Shay amp; Blue Blood Oranges (55) — and what I don’t like. “Oud,” I tell boutique manager Claire Slaney. When she slips in Creed’s new eau de parfum Royal Princess Oud (130) however, which uses a green oud from Cambodia with iris and vanilla (something else I thought I didn’t like), I’m surprised by its freshness and lightness.伦敦新开了两家香水店——蒙特街(Mount Street) 99号的Creed和伯灵顿市场街(Burlington Arcade,香水聚集地,在这里还能找到潘海利根(Penhaligon#39;s)、香奈儿(Chanel)和By Kilian等品牌)和14号的Frederic Malle,它们都提供免费香水配对务。Creed配备了安静的休息室,你可以带上一群朋友(需提前预约),挨个尝试44种香水。我被问及自己用过什么香水——回答是Le Labo Santal 33(售价150英镑)和Shay amp; Blue Blood Oranges(售价55英镑)——以及我不喜欢的类型“沉香。”我告诉经理克莱尔斯莱尼(Claire Slaney)。但当她拿出Creed的新款沉香香水Royal Princess Oud(售价130英镑)时,我却讶异于它的清新和轻盈。这款香水取材于柬埔寨的一种绿色沉香树,混以鸢尾和香草味(也是我以为自己不喜欢的东西)。Equally at Frederic Malle — which opened earlier this week — I find myself veering. They may have 22 fragrances but each is exquisitely different. I’m tempted by the woody Angéliques sous la Pluie (130), Malle’s collaboration with Jean-Claude Ellena. “Ellena is like a watercolourist, he likes fragrance to be translucent and effortless,” says Margaret Magnuson, who has worked at the brand for eight years and who tells me it’s a fragrance for someone who is confident and “does not need to broadcast their arrival. A lot of architects and photographers like it.”同样在不久前开张的Frederic Malle,我发现自己又被颠覆了。Frederic Malle可能只有22款香水,但每款都是制作精良而又迥然不同。我钟情于散发着木质气味的Angéliques sous la Pluie(售价130英镑),它是Malle与让-克洛德埃莱纳(Jean-Claude Ellena)合作的结晶。“埃莱纳就像水画家,他喜欢为香水赋以半透明、慵懒的质感。”玛格丽特氠格努森(Margaret Magnuson)表示。玛格丽特在这家品牌工作8年,她告诉我,这宽香水适合性格自信,“不需要大张旗鼓地通知自己到来的那种人。它受到许多建筑师和摄影师的青睐。”I’m not sure that pinpointing a signature scent via profiling is so easy. You’ll find one you love, several even, but these things take time and however good the profile, you need to live with the fragrance. Glasser chose Sequoia Wood (95) from her eponymous new line, The Perfumer’s Story, with top notes of fresh-smelling neroli underscored by cedar, patchouli and white musk for me — but it came with instructions: I have to wear it every day, day in and day out, even under my arms and in my hair. “Promise me,” she says, “because only then will you really feel the magic of the perfume.”我不清楚通过配对找到一款招牌香水是否真有如此简单。你会发现自己钟爱的一款乃至几款,但这需要时间。而且,不论配对有多好,你都需要学会与香水相处。格拉瑟为我挑选了自己同名品牌新系列The Perfumer’s Story的Sequoia Wood(售价95英镑),其前调采用清新的橙花油,配以雪松、广藿香和白麝香,不过这款香水使用起来也很讲究:不管在家还是出门,每天都要使用,甚至是腋下和头发都要喷。“答应我,”她说,“因为只有这样,你才能真正感受到这款香水的魔力。” /201512/412957


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