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楼主:豆瓣大夫 时间:2019年10月14日 20:51:21 点击:0 回复:0
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Is your desktop or laptop computer starting to feel a little poky? Even after just a few months of use, your PC or Mac may start to lose steam thanks to a fragmented hard drive, too many programs running in the background, or even a rogue piece of malware.开始察觉到你的台式机或笔记本电脑变的有那么点儿不好用了?只用了几个月,你的PC或MAC就失去了它的锐气,“感谢”硬盘驱动器中的某块碎片吧,这可能是因为太多程序同时在后台运行,或者是一个恶意软件在“淘气”。This week on Upgrade Your Life, Yahoo! News#39; Becky Worley serves up some quick and easy tricks for speeding up your PC or Mac, starting with …在这周的“提高你的生活质量”栏目中,来自雅虎新闻的贝奇·沃利给大家提供了一些快速又简单的小把戏,让你的电脑健步如飞,现在让我们开始吧。 /201403/280682Writer Ann Morgan set herself a challenge – to a book from every country in the world in one year. She describes the experience and what she learned.作家安·根决定给自己一个挑战——在一年时间里从世界所有国家的文学作品中各选一本书来阅读。 她讲述了自己的经历及体会。I used to think of myself as a fairly cosmopolitan sort of person, but my bookshelves told a different story. Apart from a few Indian novels and the odd Australian and South African book, my literature collection consisted of British and American titles. Worse still, I hardly ever tackled anything in translation. My ing was confined to stories by English-speaking authors.我曾认为自己是一个“海纳百川”的人,但我书架里的书却清楚地表明这并非事实。 除了一些印度小说以及澳大利亚和南非的古怪离奇的书以外,我的藏书主要是英国及美国文学。更糟糕的是,我从没有接触过任何小说译本。我读的书大多由以英语为母语的作家写就。So, at the start of 2012, I set myself the challenge of trying to a book from every country (well, all 195 UN-recognised states plus former UN member Taiwan) in a year to find out what I was missing.于是,2012年伊始,我决定给自己一个挑战---在一年内读玩196本分别来自世界每一个国家和地区的书(这里是指联合国承认的195个国家以及一个前联合国成员台湾),看看我在以往的阅读中错过了什么。With no idea how to go about this beyond a sneaking suspicion that I was unlikely to find publications from nearly 200 nations on the shelves of my local bookshop, I decided to ask the planet’s ers for help. I created a blog called A Year of Reading the World and put out an appeal for suggestions of titles that I could in English.开始时我感到无从下手,因为我暗暗怀疑是否能在当地书店里找到来自将近200多个国家的书,于是决定向世界各地的读者寻求帮助。我开了一个名叫“一年读世界”的客,请大家向我推荐一些我可以用英语阅读的文章。The response was amazing. Before I knew it, people all over the planet were getting in touch with ideas and offers of help. Some posted me books from their home countries. Others did hours of research on my behalf. In addition, several writers, like Turkmenistan’s Ak Welsapar and Panama’s Juan David Morgan, sent me unpublished translations of their novels, giving me a rare opportunity to works otherwise unavailable to the 62% of Brits who only speak English. Even with such an extraordinary team of bibliophiles behind me, however, sourcing books was no easy task. For a start, with translations making up only around 4.5 per cent of literary works published in the UK and Ireland, getting English versions of stories was tricky.我的要求得到了意想不到的反响。很快地,来自世界不同地区的人都在试图给我建议、提供帮助。有的人直接在帖子里附上来自他们的国家的书,有的人花费了几小时的时间来帮我做调查。除此之外,一些作家更是给我发送了他们未出版的小说译本,比如土库曼斯坦的阿克?韦尔斯帕和巴拿马的胡安?大卫?根。这给我了一个难得的机会,因为这些书对于占总人口62%的只会说英语的英国人来说本是读不到的。即便有爱书人组成一特别的队伍持我,寻找书源也绝不是一件简单的事。在英国和爱尔兰,出版的文学作品中只有4.5%的是译本,寻找一些故事的英文版是件棘手的事。Small states较小的国家和地区This was particularly true for francophone and lusophone (Portuguese-speaking) African countries. There’s precious little on offer for states such as the Comoros, Madagascar, Guinea-Bissau and Mozambique – I had to rely on unpublished manuscripts for several of these. And when it came to the tiny island nation of Sao Tome amp; Principe, I would have been stuck without a team of volunteers in Europe and the US who translated a book of short stories by Santomean writer Olinda Beja just so that I could have something to .尤其是对于使用法语以及葡语的非洲国家来说,只有找到很少、很宝贵的一部分书能够被找到,比如科罗、马达加斯加、几内亚-比绍以及莫桑比克。对其中的一些国家,我不得不依赖于尚未出版的手稿。而对于圣多美及普林西比民主共和国这个小小的岛国,我有幸得到了一来自欧美的志愿者团队帮助才有书可读,他们翻译了圣多美和普林西比作家奥林达?倍加短片小说。没有他们,我的读书计划难以进行下去。Then there were places where stories are rarely written down. If you’re after a good yarn in the Marshall Islands, for example, you’re more likely to go and ask the local iroij’s (chief’s) permission to hear one of the local storytellers than you are to pick up a book. Similarly, in Niger, legends have traditionally been the preserve of griots (expert narrators-cum-musicians trained in the nation’s lore from around the age of seven). Written versions of their fascinating performances are few and far between – and can only ever capture a small part of the experience of listening for yourself.一些地区很少用文字记录他们的故事。比如在马绍尔群岛,当你在想要听一个好故事的时候,你可能会去请求埃罗(首领)准许,然后去听一个当地说书人讲故事,而不是拿起一本书来阅读。类似地,在尼日尔,传说通常都专属于格里奥(专门的故事叙述者及音乐家,7岁开始接受本国神话传说方面的训练)。他们精表演的书面版本少之又少,并且即便你亲耳聆听,也只能捕获到少许。If that wasn’t enough, politics threw me the odd curveball too. The foundation of South Sudan on 9 July 2011 – although a joyful event for its citizens, who had lived through decades of civil war to get there – posed something of a challenge. Lacking roads, hospitals, schools or basic infrastructure, the six-month-old country seemed unlikely to have published any books since its creation. If it hadn’t been for a local contact putting me in touch with writer Julia Duany, who penned me a bespoke short story, I might have had to catch a plane to Juba and try to get someone to tell me a tale face to face.如果这还不够,政治因素更是给我出了个大难题。2011年7月9日南苏丹的建立,对于经历了数十年内战的国民来说可能是一件值的欢庆的事,某种意义上说却给我带来了一个挑战。没有公路、医院、学校或其它基础设施,这个六个月大的国家自建立以来便没有出版过任何的书。如果不是一个当地人帮助我联系上了作家茱莉亚?端妮,请她为我写下一个故事,我可能不得不飞到朱巴去找人面对面给我讲述一个故事。All in all, tracking down stories like these took as much time as the ing and blogging. It was a tall order to fit it all in around work and many were the nights when I sat bleary-eyed into the small hours to make sure I stuck to my target of ing one book every 1.87 days.总而言之,如此追索这些故事可能花费了和我看书、写客差不多的时间。有时候很难找时间来完成所有的任务。有多少个夜晚我都是睡眼朦胧地看到凌晨,以确保达到平均每1.87天一本书的目标。Head space头脑空间But the effort was worth it. As I made my way through the planet’s literary landscapes, extraordinary things started to happen. Far from simply armchair travelling, I found I was inhabiting the mental space of the storytellers. In the company of Bhutanese writer Kunzang Choden, I wasn’t simply visiting exotic temples, but seeing them as a local Buddhist would. Transported by the imagination of Galsan Tschinag, I wandered through the preoccupations of a shepherd boy in Mongolia’s Altai Mountains. With Nu Nu Yi as my guide, I experienced a religious festival in Myanmar from a transgender medium’s perspective.然而所有的努力都是值得的。当我走过世界文学不同的地理风貌,不同寻常的事发生了。和那些坐在扶手椅上的旅行不同,我发现自己入住了故事讲述者们的心理世界。 在不丹作家昆赞?秋殿的陪伴下,我不仅仅是简单地参观了别具异域风情的寺庙,而是以一个当地佛教徒的身份进行了拜访。乘着格尔森?契那歌德想像的翅膀,我游走在蒙古阿尔泰山牧童的思想里。以努努依为向导,我从一个变性人的视角体验了缅甸的宗教盛典。In the hands of gifted writers, I discovered, bookpacking offered something a physical traveller could hope to experience only rarely: it took me inside the thoughts of individuals living far away and showed me the world through their eyes. More powerful than a thousand news reports, these stories not only opened my mind to the nuts and bolts of life in other places, but opened my heart to the way people there might feel.在这些天才作家掌握中,我发现,书带给了我一种外出旅行少有的经历:它把我带入了那些远方人们的思想当中,并且给我展示他们的双眼所观察到的世界。比成千上万新闻报道更有感染力的是,这些故事不仅让我看到了其它地区生活的点点滴滴,也让我与当地人感同身受。And that in turn changed my thinking. Through ing the stories shared with me by bookish strangers around the globe, I realised I was not an isolated person, but part of a network that stretched all over the planet.而这反过来改变了我原有的想法。通过读那些世界各地爱书人给我分享的书籍,我意识到我并不是一个孤立的人,而是属于一个覆盖全球的网络的一部分。One by one, the country names on the list that had begun as an intellectual exercise at the start of the year transformed into vital, vibrant places filled with laughter, love, anger, hope and fear. Lands that had once seemed exotic and remote became close and familiar to me – places I could identify with. At its best, I learned, fiction makes the world real.渐渐地,年初被当成智力训练而列下的国名,变成一个个充满欢笑、爱、愤怒、希望和恐惧的地方,活灵活现、意义非凡。曾经被我认为奇异和遥远的地方变得接近和熟悉---成了一个个我能清晰辨别的地方。最难能可贵的是,我学到:小说让世界变得真实。 /201404/289849On Dec. 5, 1952, a thick layer of fog settled over the streets of London, blanketing the city. This was no ordinary wintery mist, but rather a noxious haze of sulfur dioxide from coal-fired industrial factories and cookstoves in London homes. London#39;s Great Smog hung in the air for five consecutive days; visibility was reduced to mere feet and cars were abandoned or led off the road by police with traffic flares. It was the ;nation#39;s worst air pollution disaster; and remains the deadliest smog event on record. 1952年12月5日,一层浓雾笼罩着伦敦的大街小巷,覆盖了整座城市。这可不是普通冬雾,而是一种由工业燃煤和家庭燃炉产生的有毒二氧化硫烟雾。伦敦浓雾持续笼罩了五天,能见度仅为几英尺,车辆要么被遗弃,要么被警方清理出了路面。这是英国最严重的一次大气污染灾难,也是迄今为止最严重的雾霾事件。According to the Telegraph, the devastation the smog wrought ;only became apparent when undertakers reported that they were running out of coffins and florists had sold all their flowers.; In the following three months, an estimated 13,000 people died of respiratory complications.据《电讯报》报道,直到受害者反应棺材短缺、花农表示鲜花售罄,这场雾霾造成的危害才昭然显现。接下来三个月,将近有13000人死于呼吸道并发症。The hazy scenes of London#39;s Great Smog bear a striking resemblence to modern-day images of China#39;s urban centers on their most polluted days. And though China has never had an event to match those four days in London, its pollution problem is persistent and pervasive. In 2010, air pollution contributed to 1.2 million deaths in China. Between 1981 and 2001, particulate levels in its major cities were five times greater than what the ed States experienced before 1970.伦敦雾霾事件的朦胧境况和当下严重污染的中国城市的情形有着惊人的相似。尽管中国尚未遭遇伦敦烟雾那样的事件,其污染状况也一直持续蔓延。2010年,中国约有120万人死于空气污染。1981年至2001年,中国大城市的颗粒物指数是美国在1970年之前的五倍。And the problem is worsening at an incredible rate. In 2009, the concentration of particulate pollution in the Chinese city of Harbin averaged 101 micrograms per meter, according to the World Health Organization. Four years later, in October 2013, levels were up tenfold, a new record.而且,其污染问题仍在急剧加重。据世界卫生组织统计,2009年,中国哈尔滨的颗粒物污染浓度达到101微克/米。四年后也就是2013年10月,相关指数已涨了十倍,创下新的记录。This week, Gina McCarthy, the new head of the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), said she would be meeting with partners in China in the coming days to address air pollution issues, but was careful to stress that this is not an challenge limited to China. The West, too, has faced hazardous pollution. ;We have been there before,; she said on Monday, Dec. 2. The comparison bears consideration; what follows is a series of photo pairings -- smog in London then, and in China now.本周美国国家环保局局长吉娜-麦卡锡表示,接下来她将与中国负责人会晤,力求解决环境污染问题;同时她也谨慎强调,空气污染不只是中国面临的挑战,西方国家也存在严重的污染问题。12月2日(星期一),她说:“我们也曾遇过这个问题。” 通过系列图片来对比当时的伦敦和现在的中国,将很有意义。London#39;s Great Smog rolled into city#39;s streets on a ;mass of cold air,; and remained, trapped by a layer of warmer air above. PM 2.5 -- the mass, in micrograms, of particles larger than 2.5 micrometers in a cubic centimeter, a common measure of hazardous air pollution -- rocketed to 1,600, a record China has yet to approach even on its worst days.伦敦烟雾是伴着大范围冷空气席卷整座城市,并将暖空气隔断在上层的。根据测量有害空气污染的常规方法,当时的PM2.5——即量直径小于2.5微米的物质,高达1600。而中国即便在最严重时也没有这么高的指数。Perhaps the closest China has come was the smog that settled over Harbin, a city of 10 million people in northeast China, in October. As PM 2.5 climbed to 1,000, the city effectively shut down, closing schools, airports, and highways.中国受雾霾袭击最严重的城市怕是哈尔滨——一座拥有1000万人口的东北城市。10月份,哈尔滨的PM2.5值达到1000,政府采取有效措施,关闭了学校、机场和高速。The Great Smog of 1952 prompted Britain#39;s 1956 Clean Air Act, which led to legislation in the ed States. In New York, in particular, pollution had become a major problem: particularly deadly clouds of smog were blamed for 200 deaths in 1963 and 168 more in 1966. These events were pivotal in motivating Congress to establish the EPA and pass landmark clean air laws. Like China today, most of that pollution was caused by burning coal and, to a lesser extent, by heavy traffic in cities like Los Angeles.1952年烟雾事件后,英国颁布了《1956大气净化法》,进而也促进了美国的相关立法。纽约的污染尤为堪忧:1963年,致命雾霾造成200人死亡;1966年,死亡人数增加了168人以上。这些事件有效促使美国国会成立环境保护署并通过了具有里程碑意义的《大气净化法》。和当今中国一样,当时的污染多由燃煤造成,此外像洛杉矶等城市的大量交通废气排放也是致因。;We know what planning can do,; McCarthy said of the EPA#39;s work with China. ;We know there are many ways in which you can engage your states, and in China#39;s case provinces, to bring a sense of urgency to this issue.;提及环境保护署与中国的合作,麦卡锡表示:“我们知道什么方案行得通,也有很多适用于中国及其问题省份的解决措施,以便提高对此问题的紧迫感。”;I am hopeful,; she said. ;One of the reasons I am hopeful is that I know what we#39;ve been able to accomplish in the ed States.;她还说:“我很有信心。之所以有信心,是因为我清楚美国也曾遇到并成功解决过这个问题。” /201312/268697

Chinese social media users wonder whether the White House#39;s new choice for ambassador to China will survive in Beijing. Not politically, but physically.中国社交媒体用户在思忖,白宫计划提名的新任驻华大使能否在北京生存。这不是说要在政治圈子内生存下来,而是说他的身体是不是吃得消。U.S. President Barack Obama plans to nominate Sen. Max Baucus to replace outgoing envoy Gary Locke, The Wall Street Journal reported Wednesday. The six-term Democrat, who has said he doesn#39;t plan to run for re-election, just turned 72.《华尔街日报》(The Wall Street Journal)周三报道称,美国总统奥巴马(Barack Obama)计划提名参议员鲍卡斯(Max Baucus )接替即将离任的骆家辉(Gary Locke)出任驻华大使。民主党人鲍卡斯现年72岁,目前是他在参议院的第六任议员任期,他此前表示明年将不再寻求连任议员。If confirmed, Mr. Baucus would be the oldest person to take up the post since the U.S. and China formally re-established diplomatic relations in 1979.若提名得到批准,鲍卡斯将成为1979年中美正式恢复外交关系以来年龄最大的美国驻华大使。The Helena native has a wealth of experience in dealing with trade issues--a key issue for Beijing and Washington--but China#39;s Internet users appeared more concerned with the whether someone with so many years under his belt would be able to handle the rigors of life in the Chinese capital.鲍卡斯来自蒙大拿州海伦娜,在处理北京和华盛顿都密切关注的贸易问题上拥有许多经验。不过中国互联网用户似乎更关心这位老人能否应付中国首都的艰难生活环境。#39;A venerable 72 and he wants to come to the Celestial Kingdom to breathe the poisoned cloud,#39; wrote one user of the Twitter-like Sina Weibo microblogging service. Another user was more direct: #39;So old! Don#39;t die in the Beijing smog!#39;一位新浪(Sina)微(Weibo)用户写道,72岁的老头还想到天朝来吸毒气。另一位用户则更直接:太老了!别被北京雾霾弄死!Still another user suggested Mr. Baucus should be known in Chinese as Ambassador Bao Kesi (包咳死 ). The last two characters, when combined, mean #39;cough to death.#39;另外一位用户认为,鲍卡斯的名字应该被翻译成“包咳死”。Older American emissaries have served in Beijing and lived to tell about it. David Bruce was 75 when he set up the U.S. Liaison Office in Beijing in 1973 --though China Real Time assumes the air was at least slightly cleaner then.曾有年龄更大的美国驻华使节在北京供职,并且在北京的空气中活了下来。1973年负责建立美国驻华联络处的卜大卫(David Bruce)就有75岁高龄,但中国实时报(China Real Time)认为当时的空气至少要略微干净一些。Reaction to news of Mr. Baucus#39;s impending nomination was far more muted than it was when the White House tapped Mr. Locke in 2011. Mr. Locke, whose grandfather emigrated to the U.S. from southern China in the 1890s, was the first Chinese-American to be named to the post. He quickly won over the Chinese Internet, despite state media efforts to brand him an agent of #39;neo-colonialism,#39; largely by conducting himself with a humility perceived to be lacking in China#39;s own officials.鲍卡斯可能提名驻华大使引发的反响远不如白宫2011年提名骆家辉担任驻华大使的反响强烈。骆家辉是第一位担任美国驻华大使的美籍华人,他的祖父是在19世纪90年代从中国南部移居美国的。尽管中国国有媒体试图给他贴上“新殖民主义”代言人的标签,但骆家辉仍迅速在中国互联网上树立了良好声誉,这主要是因为他行事低调谦逊,而这正是一些中国官员所缺乏的。Pollution also figured into the online speculation when Mr. Locke announced his intention to step down last month, though he has denied that the city#39;s chewable air had anything to do with his decision to return to the U.S.就在骆家辉上个月宣布他有意辞去驻华大使一职时,也有一些网民猜测北京的污染可能是原因。不过,骆家辉否认北京的雾霾与他本人辞职返回美国的决定有任何关系。Unlike the previous two U.S. envoys, Mr. Baucus has little personal connection to the world#39;s second-largest economy. (Jon Huntsman, Mr. Locke#39;s predecessor, speaks Mandarin and has an adopted daughter from China.) Some Internet users saw that as a positive, arguing that the Montanan would be a less confusing representative than Mr. Locke, who was accused by a few nationalists of betraying his motherland.与前两任美国驻华大使不同,鲍卡斯与中国这个全球第二大经济体的个人情感联系并不多。(骆家辉的前任洪培(Jon Huntsman)会说普通话,并从中国领养了一个女儿。)一些互联网用户认为这带来了一些好处,认为这位蒙大拿州议员与骆家辉相比将是一位立场不那么令人感到困惑的美国驻华代表。中国的少数“爱国主义者”曾指控骆家辉背叛祖国。 /201312/269612

It started with Natalie Massenet. The Net-a-Porter founder and British Fashion Council chairman was spotted pairing a leopard print Marc Jacobs skirt with a leopard print Valentino Rockstud clutch at New York Fashion Week; the following week in London Kate Moss was seen front row at Topshop’s show in a pair of black leopard print Hysteric Glamour jeans, then, at Paris Fashion Week, stylist Giovanna Battaglia turned up in a vintage early 1990s leopard print Ala?a dress at the designer’s retrospective opening at the Palais Galliera.一切皆肇事于娜塔莉?马斯内(Natalie Massenet),这位Net-a-Porter网店创始人兼英国时装协会主席身穿马克?雅可布(Marc Jacobs)豹纹衬衣,手拎华伦天奴(Valentino) Rockstud豹纹手提包现身纽约时装周(New York Fashion Week);接下来的一周,在伦敦,凯特?莫斯(Kate Moss)身穿日本Hysteric Glamour潮牌牛仔裤就坐于Topshop时装发布会前排;而后的巴黎时装周(Paris Fashion Week),设计师乔瓦娜?巴塔吉利亚(Giovanna Battaglia)身穿上世纪90年代初的老款阿亚拉(Ala?a)裙装现身在加列拉宫(Palais Galliera)举行的个人作品回顾展开幕式。By the time Andrea Mitchell, N News’ chief foreign affairs correspondent, wore a black leopard print trench while delivering her nightly report on the Syrian crisis the trend was official: animal spots are big news.到全球广播公司新闻台(N News)首席外交事务记者安德莉亚?米切尔(Andrea Mitchell)身穿黑色豹纹风衣、在晚间新闻播报叙利亚危机时,整个时尚潮流算是尘埃落定:动物斑纹装登上了头条新闻。“With the amount of prints women are now dressing in, leopard really is the ‘new black’,” says stylist Isabel Dupré, whose equivalent to the little black dress is an Isabel Marant leopard print number she considers her fail-safe go-to. “There is something that s expensive and ‘fashion’ in the print when it is worn right,” she adds. “Most of the time it’s as timeless as wearing black.”“随着女士穿着动物斑纹装渐趋增多,豹纹成为名符其实的流行趋势,”设计师伊莎贝尔?杜普雷(Isabel Dupré)说,她的“小黑礼”(Little black dress)是伊莎贝尔?玛兰(Isabel Marant)豹纹装,她认为它能适用于各种场合。“豹纹装只要穿着得体,就会透出奢侈与‘时尚’气息,”她补充道。“多数情况下,穿黑色豹纹装从不落伍。”“Leopard print really is the new classic,” agrees Colleen Sherin, senior fashion director at Saks Fifth Avenue. “Women today should look at leopard as a great investment piece and not something to shy away from because it’s too bold or too old or too young.” Helen David, head of womenswear at Harrods, says that because designers have offered leopard print in paler tones for autumn, it has become a more versatile day-to-evening option. “This season leopard print has firmly established itself,” says David, who bought everything from Roland Mouret’s multicoloured leopard eveningwear to a 3.1 Phillip Lim leather biker jacket with leopard print sleeves for the department store.“豹纹表现的是真正的新古典风格,”萨克斯第五大道(Saks Fifth Avenue)高级时尚总监珂丽恩?谢林(Colleen Sherin)对此表示赞同。“如今的女士应把豹纹装视作奇货可居之物,不能因它太过醒目、老气横秋或是朝气蓬勃而有意规避它。”哈罗德百货(Harrods)女装部总管海伦?大卫(Helen David)说。由于设计师在今秋时装季推出淡色调豹纹装,它已成为左右逢源的饰,能满足工作与社交的各种需求。“这个秋冬季,豹纹装已经牢牢地在时尚界站稳阵脚,”大卫说,她本人也购买了各种豹纹装,从罗兰?穆雷(Roland Mouret)的多色豹纹晚装到菲利普?林3.1(Phillip Lim 3.1)为百货公司设计的豹纹袖款托夹克,品类繁多。She is not the only one. Walk into a Burberry shop anywhere in the world and you will be faced by a plethora of animal spots; leopard print sleeves on a gabardine trench, a pair of metal bow-front patterned pumps, leopard mink trim on a tan drawstring leather bag, a below-the-knee calfskin printed pencil skirt, matching gloves or even an outsized leopard print umbrella.类似者大有人在。走进全球任何一家柏利(Burberry)门店,看到的是形形色色的动物斑纹装——带豹纹袖的华达呢风衣、弓背形金属图案的宫廷鞋(脚面露出较多,没有绑定固定部分,但脚踝部可有系带)、豹貂皮饰边的棕褐色拉带皮包、中长款小牛皮纹紧身窄裙,它们用手套甚至特大号豹纹雨伞搭配,相得益彰。There is no doubt then, that the preferred print of screen sirens Sophia Loren and Elizabeth Taylor – not to mention 73-year-old Raquel Welch, who wore a leopard print dress at a pre-Emmy awards party last month – is making a roaring comeback. And the responses of designers and retailers suggest that it’s here to stay.毫无疑问,昔日影视界时尚女王索菲娅?罗兰(Sophia Loren)与伊丽莎白?泰勒(Elizabeth Taylor)钟爱的豹纹装正强势回归——更甭提73岁的拉奎尔?韦尔奇(Raquel Welch)了,她身穿豹纹裙出席了上月的艾美奖预热晚会(pre-Emmy awards party)。设计师与零售商反响强烈,表明豹纹装前景一片看好。Eva Chen, Lucky magazine editor-in-chief, calls it the “Jenna Lyons effect”, crediting the J Crew president and creative director with “informing women on how to mix and match sailor stripes, animal prints and out-there florals as you would a black or grey T-shirt”.《Lucky》时尚杂志华裔主编陈怡桦(Eva Chen)称之为“詹娜?莱昂斯效应”,她把这归功于时尚品牌J Crew总裁兼创意总监詹娜?莱昂斯(Jenna Lyons),对方“向女士灌输如何把水手条纹、动物斑纹以及异乎寻常的花纹等混搭至黑色或灰色T恤衫上”。“It’s a print that real women, not the red carpet divas, have made their own little by little,” says Stefano Gabbana, who recalls that leopard print dresses were considered daring – scandalous, even – when he co-founded Dolce amp; Gabbana in 1985. “For us, leopard print is universal, irrespective of age or profession,” adds his design partner Domenico Dolce.“豹纹装是‘真女人’(而非歌剧女主角)一点一滴打拼出来的天地,”斯特凡诺?加巴纳(Stefano Gabbana)说,他回忆自己1985年与多梅尼科?多尔切(Domenico Dolce)合创杜嘉班纳(Dolce amp; Gabbana)品牌时,穿豹纹装被视为惊世骇俗之举——甚至可以说有伤风化。“我们觉得豹纹装适合各个年龄段、各种职业,”加巴纳的设计伙伴多尔切补充道。Fellow Italian designer Roberto Cavalli has long had a love for these patterns. “Nature created the animal print and I just put my own twist on it,” he says. “What I appreciate most about leopard is its strong graphic identity that also lends itself to interpretation. As long as you wear it with confidence and ease, leopard will always be empowering.”他俩的意大利同行罗伯特?卡沃利(Roberto Cavalli)长久以来一直很喜欢这些豹纹图样。“大自然的造化缔造了这些动物斑纹,本人只是稍作改动而已,”他说。“我最欣赏豹纹,因为它能很好地通过图样体现穿着者的身份,还能起到一定的诠释作用。只要自信而轻松地穿着豹纹装,它永远显得那么英姿飒爽。”Empowering it may be, but it is best to t carefully while wearing the print in a business setting. “The more black you pair it with, the more that it will help mute the print but still allow it to flash,” says Alexandra Lebenthal, president and chief executive of municipal bond dealer Lebenthal amp; Company, who still counts her 10-year-old Equipment leopard print jacket as a wardrobe staple.尽管英姿飒爽,但出席商务活动时,穿着豹纹装走起路来要尽可能谨小慎微。“你搭配其它饰的颜色越黑,就越能中和豹纹装带来的咄咄逼人气势,但仍可让豹纹装光夺目,”市政债券交易公司Lebenthal amp; Company总裁兼CEO亚历桑德罗?莱贝撒尔(Alexandra Lebenthal)说,她仍把穿了10年的Equipment豹纹夹克视作自己的“镇箱之宝”。At Saks, Sherin advises the feline-shy to ease into the print with an accessory, such as a loafer or as a treatment on a lapel, in lining or as outerwear. “Wear leopard in a place you want to draw the eyes to,” she says.在萨克斯第五大道,谢林建议:不喜欢猫科动物斑纹者可用配饰慢慢过渡至豹纹的办法,如穿双乐福鞋、对翻领及内衬稍作改动、或是用外套来搭配。“把豹纹放在自己希望引发关注的部位,”她说。But at Net-a-Porter, the current popularity of the print was almost a missed opportunity. Having decided to take a break from the ubiquitous pattern this season, fashion director Holli Rogers dropped her spot-free mandate after seeing designers who normally shy away from leopard – from Stella McCartney to Mother of Pearl – embrace it with fervour: “Leopard print felt fresh again – something I wasn’t expecting this season at all.” And her advice on how to embrace the look? “My number one tip is to have fun with leopard,” she says. “Fearlessly experiment.”但目前最流行的豹纹装差点与Net-a-Porter网店失之交臂。时尚总监霍利?罗杰斯(Holli Rogers)原打定主意与今年秋冬季无处不在的豹纹式样“决裂”,但在亲眼目睹从斯特拉?麦卡特尼(Stella McCartney)到Mother of Pearl、这些昔日规避豹纹图样的设计师都对它顶礼膜拜后,也摈弃了不用动物斑纹的设计信条:“这个秋冬季豹纹再次迸发青春气息——这是我压根未曾预料到。”那么她建议该如何对待豹纹装?“本人最佳建议是高高兴兴接受豹纹装,”她说。“勇敢无畏地去尝试它。”The spot market for men: Get in touch with your inner caveman男士豹纹装:满足内心狂野“I guess animal prints have always been a classic – just never in menswear,” says Topman’s creative director Gordon Richardson of the animal print phenomenon that is crossing over into men’s wardrobes. “With the explosion of print and pattern we’ve been witnessing in menswear, an animal print suddenly seems like an easy option for men as a way of updating their wardrobes and looking ahead of the curve.”“我觉得动物斑纹装永远经典——只是原先从不与男装有关,”Topman创意总监戈登?理查德森(Gordon Richardson)这样评价动物斑纹装逐步进入男装领地这种现象。“随着动物斑纹及图样在男装系列遍地开花,它们似乎突然之间成为男士更新换代自己装、实现超前时尚的捷径。”But leopard print for men is not just about affordable T-shirts and sweatshirts; it is also being touted as an ultra luxurious investment buy, writes David Hayes.但男士豹纹装并非只是寻常价位的T恤以及运动衫,它还忽悠成有投资价值的超奢侈消费品,大卫?海耶斯(David Hayes)如是写道。“The ‘snow leopard’ patterned coat is in mink that has been needle-punched through cashmere jacquard,” says Kim Jones, creative director of Louis Vuitton menswear, of the label’s star men’s buy (£5,050). “It’s a brand new technique that we have developed exclusively.”“雪豹纹外套用羊绒提花针轧的貂皮做就,”路易威登(Louis Vuitton)男装创意总监金姆?琼斯(Kim Jones)这样评价旗下推出的、专门针对男士大腕的款式(售价5050英镑)。“这项全新技术是我们专为男士开发。”“I’ve always liked Stephen Sprouse’s leopard print for Louis Vuitton and wanted to make a masculine version of it,” adds Jones.“我一直很喜欢史蒂芬?斯普劳斯(Stephen Sprouse)为路易威登设计的豹纹装,也想设计类似的男装系列,”琼斯补充道。But will leopard print – however luxurious – sell to men? “Some of our clients are on a constant search for unique, limited edition products to make themselves stand out,” says Jones. “I’m always surprised by some of our top clients’ choices; it challenges us to come up with new developments season after season.”但男士豹纹装(不管多奢华)销路会如何?“有些顾客一直在苦苦找寻独具风格的限量版装,以使自己与众不同,”琼斯说。“我总是惊喜于某些高端客户的喜好;他们不断激励我们在每个装季推陈出新。”Another label pioneering leopard for men is British knit trio Sibling, who have made the leopard sweater their own (from £260). “All three of us adore animal prints,” says Cozette McCreery, who teamed up with Sid Bryan and Joe Bates to form Sibling in 2008. “Our wardrobes are like an African dictator’s interior decoration scheme: zebra, leopard spots, tiger stripes, snake print.另一前卫豹纹男装设计师是英国针织装三人组合Sibling,他们推出了自己的豹纹运动衫(售价260英镑起)。“我们三人都酷爱动物斑纹,”柯赛特?麦克里瑞(Cozette McCreery)说,她2008年与希德?布赖恩(Sid Bryan)以及乔?贝兹(Joe Bates)共同创建Sibling品牌。“我们的衣柜酷似非洲独裁者的室内装饰图案大荟萃:斑马纹、豹纹、狮纹以及蛇纹。“Our very first collection incorporated a leopard pattern on a cashmere base and was a firm favourite with everyone from skater guys to city boys,” adds McCreery. Why leopard? “Because it was always our intention to steal from womenswear. Now it’s what store buyers and consumers expect, and, because it feels timeless to us, we are happy to oblige.”“我们设计的第一个系列就把豹纹融入到羊绒制品中,从溜冰小伙到都市男孩,他们对我们的产品爱不释手,欲罢不能,” 麦克里瑞补充说。为何选择豹纹装?“因为我们一直有从女装嫁接设计风格的愿望。如今它是顾客与消费者期盼的产品,因为它永远不落伍,我们乐得顺水推舟。”Have animal prints really become the new neutral for men? Some style insiders are having none of it. “No. It’s a trend, not a classic,” says Mr Porter’s Jeremy Langmead emphatically.动物斑纹装是否真成了男士新的中性装代表?某些时尚业内人士全然不这么认为。“不,它只是股流行风,而非时尚经典,”在线零售商Mr Porter主编杰里米?兰米德(Jeremy Langmead)强调说。“For autumn we have bought animal prints sp broadly across accessories and clothing,” says Langmead. “From leopard sweaters by Raf Simons (£610) and shirts by Acne (£200) to Chelsea boots (£650) by Burberry Prorsum and scarves (£390) from Saint Laurent. But we also have a great pair of grey suede leopard print slippers by Jimmy Choo (£395) which could easily be worn with a dinner suit and are incredibly elegant.”“对于今年的秋冬季,我们采购了广泛运用动物斑纹的各种配饰及装,”兰米德说。“从拉夫?西蒙斯(Raf Simons)的豹纹毛衣(售价610英镑)、艾克妮(Acne)的豹纹衬衣(售价210英镑)、柏利?珀松(Burberry Prorsum)设计的短靴(Chelsea boots,售价650英镑)到圣?罗兰(Saint Laurent)的丝巾(售价390英镑),应有尽有。但我们也采购了Jimmy Choo灰色山羊皮豹纹拖鞋(售价395英镑),它设计精巧,很容易与晚宴小礼搭配穿,显得特别温文尔雅。”“It certainly heralds a new mood for print and texture in menswear. It will be interesting to see how this will evolve,” adds Langmead. “Who knew that men would willingly embrace florals a few years ago, let alone leopard?”“这明确昭示了男装花样与质地出现了新的时尚趋势。能亲眼目睹它如何演变发展很有意义,”兰米德补充道。“几年前,谁都没预见到男士会心甘情愿地喜欢上花式装?更甭提豹纹装了!” /201311/263916

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